A few weeks back, I was looking for somewhere different to go for the day and decided to take the family to Pulau Ketam. We drove down to Kelang’s Southport, about 40 km from Kuala Lumpur, parked the car, and found the jetty where ferries depart for Pulau Ketam.
The ferry was shaped like a railway carriage, semi-submerged in the water and showing signs of rust but it was cheap and quite fast once it got going. Personally I prefer my ferries to have open decks and plenty of escape routes whereas this one was more like a floating coffin but it was only a 30 minute journey and the route avoided the open sea. On exiting the busy Kelang harbour, we caught a glimpse of the Star Cruise Terminal at Westport and then entered a narrow estuary with mangrove forest on both sides. Emerging from the muddy waterway, the ferry made a quick dash across a channel before arriving at the jetty on Pulau Ketam.
Pulau Ketam is a low-lying, muddy island fringed with mangrove swamps. It is mainly inhabited by a fishing community of about 8,000 people whose village is made up of quaint wooden houses built on stilts driven into the soft mud. This traditional community migrated from Southern China and settled on the island a couple of hundred years ago to use it as a base to exploit the rich fishing grounds nearby.
At low tide the waters recede to reveal a muddy shoreline teeming with crabs and mudskippers.
There are no cars on the island so as you stroll or cycle along the narrow streets and wooden boardwalks you will get an up close view of how the people live.
The slow pace gives the island a peaceful, relaxing atmosphere which, together with the presence of a number of busy seafood restaurants, makes the island a popular weekend destination for Kuala Lumpurites. The main street from the jetty is lined with shops and restaurants, giving off a pungent aroma of dried seafood and delicious cooking. If you have ever been to Lamma Island in Hong Kong you will be able to imagine this scene. Oyster omelets seemed to be a popular snack food on sale.
Some say the population of Pulau Ketam earns money from fishing, tourism and smuggling. What they are supposed to be smuggling is not clear. I certainly did not see anything fishy going on (excuse the pun!).
It was an enjoyable day out and we shall probably go again.
I recently returned from climbing Mt. Rinjani in Lombok, Indonesia. This was the third in a series of major peaks in South-East Asia, having earlier climbed Mt. Kinabalu in Malaysia and Mt. Fansipan in Vietnam. How did they compare?
Height. In terms of height, Kinabalu is the highest, 4,095 metres, followed by Rinjani at 3727m and Fansipan on 3143m. Of course pure height does not the reflect actual metres climbed or the degree of difficulty. The Kinabalu climb began at Timpahon Gate which lies at an altitude of 1,866m. It was more or less a straight up (and down) route so the actual height climbed was 2,229m. With Fansipan, we started at 1,800m (Tram Ton Pass), but almost immediately dipped to 1,700m and then up to 2,200m for the camp. Then a big up followed by some dips and detours as we negotiated the mountain in front of Fanxipan before climbing up to the summit. The total height actually climbed was around 1,593 metres. As for Rinjani, the trek started at 600m, we ascended to the crater rim, 2641m, then down to Segara Anak lake (2,051m) before climbing up to the 2nd camp, 2,638m, then up to the summit, 3,726m, followed by a long march down to the road at 1,156m. The total height climbed was 3,715 metres (more than double Fansipan!). It was also by far the longest distance walked.
Difficulty.Kinabalu was probably the least difficult of the 3 climbs because the path was well defined and maintained. Steps and ropes were in place to assist climbers over the tricky spots. Having said that, it was still very hard work. Being the highest of the 3 peaks, people were more likely to suffer from altitude sickness. I found the descent brutal due to the steepness of the path and the endless rough steps over unforgiving terrain which took a toll on my tired knees. Fansipan was probably the second hardest because there was a lot of mud to be trudged through and in places there were huge boulders to be clambered over which was not easy in the wet slippery conditions. The path was poorly defined and maintained. The hardest climb was Rinjani. This was purely due to the final exhausting 1000 meters which involved clawing our way up a sheer bank of soft volcanic ash. It was also the coldest peak of the three, though Kinabalu was also freezing.
Views/Scenery. Rinjani had the most beautiful scenery, especially the view from the crater rim. Shame we could not see a thing from the peak at dawn due to thick cloud. Kinabalu had amazing views from the summit. Fansipan involved a lot of hiking through bamboo forests but the view from the top was also worth seeing.
Porters. The porters on all three climbs were great and showed impressive stamina and skill at climbing great heights despite shoddy footwear.
Access. Both Rinjani and Kinabalu had easy access to their starting off points, a couple of hours drive from the closest airport. Fansipan needed an overnight train trip from Hanoi to reach the start of the trail.
Certificate. Kinabalu’s park authorities provided an attractive certificate to commemorate the successful climb. For Rinjani, our tour operator provided a certificate of achievement. Unfortunately no certificates were issued for Fansipan.
Accommodation/Food. Kinabalu was well organised to handle the large numbers who climb the mountain daily. Hostel accomodation, with hot meals, showers and toilets, was available at Laban Rata (3,720m) where most climbers spent the night before the early morning trek to the summit. The Rinjani climb included two nights in tents,the comfort of which, and the quality of the food, depended on which tour operator you used. Ours was excellent and they even provided a toilet tent in an attempt to at least bury the poo, which unfortunately was strewn all over the campsites. Fansipan had one or two grim shacks where climbers spent the night but the food again was pretty good.